.png)
- When you’re a girl from Alaska with three weeks of free time, what do you do? I think you have to fly to Asia.
When you’re a girl from Alaska with three weeks of free time (in January) on your hands, what do you do?
Do you stay in bed and hibernate until you see the sun again? Or do you fly to Asia?
I think you have to fly to Asia. I do often. And that’s how I found myself boarding a plane to Taiwan for a three-week solo stay.
Getting There: The Universe Provides
The journey to get there was not so simple. I mentioned it was January, right? A winter storm delayed my flight out of Alaska, which meant I missed a connection, and of course, my luggage was lost in the chaos. It was a stressful few hours of tense calls to airlines and frantic texts to friends, vowing to never leave my house again. But when you’re solo traveling, you have to be a resilient problem solver, and in my experience, there’s no derailed plan that can’t be put back on the tracks.
I ended up checking into my hotel only a day late, ready to meet Taipei.
My luggage was found and made its way to me three days later. The universe provides.
Taipei: Too Cool for Me (But I Loved It Anyway)
Taipei is probably the coolest city I’ve ever been to. Way too cool for me, that’s for sure. I’ll give you the rundown that everyone gives when they write about Taipei: The city itself is beautiful and expansive. There’s art everywhere. Some of the old buildings are still standing, still proud; their historical and cultural character woven into the design of the new ones. The coffee shops and small eateries are next level. The public transportation is so good, so fast, and so efficient that it fills my West Coast American soul with ennui. Taipei is so fucking cool.
My hotel was neighbors with 228 Memorial Peace Park, and I enjoyed taking strolls in the mornings before braving the day. The Tsui Hang Pagoda became a companion of sorts. If you’re in the area, I recommend a quick visit to the National Taiwan Museum. They’ve got dinosaur bones.
Maokong: Tea, Temples & Black Pepper Buns
On a day trip, I took the gondola up to Maokong, a small tourist town with restaurants and tea houses where you can sample local teas. There are several small family farms in the area, and if you’re lucky, you might catch a farmer doing a tea tasting at the Taipei Tea Promotion Center. You’ll definitely walk away with your bag much heavier than before.
The Maokong Gondola has a stop at Zhinan Temple, a Taoist temple that sits on the mountainside overlooking Taipei. I had the place to myself. It was the perfect spot to take a minute to breathe in the fresh air before descending the mountain, back into the city.
On your way back, stop at Raohe Night Market — if you’re taking the MRT, it’s the very last stop on the green line. Fuzhou Pepper Buns will be the first stall you see. They have the famous black pepper pork buns, cooked in a clay oven. I’ve never been more in love with a bun in my life. I went back twice.
Qingtiangang Grasslands: Worth the Winding Road
If you’re feeling a little citied out, venture to Qingtiangang Grasslands. It’s a hiking and walking area about an hour out of the city, accessible by bus if you don’t have a car. But let me warn you: it’s not for the faint of heart, or those who are easily carsick. They pack you in like sardines, and the roads are windy. The ride is long.
Once you arrive, you’ll be welcomed with nothing but rolling green hills as far as you can see. Water buffalo grazing in the distance. Families picnicking and enjoying their day out together.
Taipei, the city, never impressed me as much as the nature you could find just beyond its figurative walls. If you ever find yourself in Taipei, you have to schedule some time to do like the locals do and get out into it.
Jiufen: Spirited Away (Whether Ghibli Admits It or Not)
Jiufen is a town nestled into the coastline of northern Taiwan. It supposedly inspired the Studio Ghibli film Spirited Away. Despite the studio actively denying this, people still believe it. And guys — it’s kind of true. I see it.
I was here for two days. I experienced the crush that happens along Jiufen Old Street during peak hours, shoulder to shoulder with fellow visitors. But I also walked the deserted alleyways in the early morning, enjoying my time at A-Mei Tea House with the whole upper floor to myself. Sunlight (the first I’d seen in Taiwan) was shining off the sea in the distance. It feels a little like you’ve been spirited away when compared to bustling Taipei, like you’ve stumbled into a storybook seaside village with ferns growing out of rock walls and stray cats keeping you company. It’s sweet.
I recommend (like everyone) coming early to beat the crowds.
There’s a lot to do in this area, and from what I’ve seen online, most people only make it a day trip and miss out on it all. I also missed out on everything because I fell ill and chose to stay at my cozy hostel. But that won’t happen to you.
Stay a few days. Hike Teapot Mountain! Go to Yehliu Geopark! Explore Jinguashi! Do it for me!
Tea House Recommendation: A-Mei Tea House
Stay Recommendation: The Dragon Smart Stay Hostel
Miaoli: Finding My Spark in an Indigo Dyeing House
I recovered just in time to move on to my next destination, an indigo dyeing house and B&B in the Miaoli district. A few trains and a taxi got me there, tucked away just outside a small town called Sanyi. I joke that I traveled 5,000 miles just to do some indigo dyeing, which is something I do at home all summer long. And that’s not not true.
I was looking for something to reignite my spark or my love for natural dyeing after burning out the year before. And this quiet, serene corner of the world did exactly that.
Joye Cottage: A Special Place
Joye (Zhuo Ye) Cottage is special, and you can tell that the people there love it. That love translates to everyone who gets to visit.
They offer an indigo dyeing experience where they guide you through the entire process. They have items prepped and ready for the vat that you can choose from. I chose a little curtain. The workers showed me the best way to dip it into the vat, rinse until it fully oxidizes, and repeat until it’s so blue it looks black.
It was really nice to be coached through the process with an intention that I don’t always have at home, especially when I have a deadline to meet. It’s true what they say — making your passion into a job takes the fun out of it. But indigo is hard not to love. Watching it start green and slowly transform into a rich, vibrant blue, the same blue that our ancestors saw, loved, and adorned themselves with, is addicting.
In that workshop, I felt more at home than anywhere else in Taiwan. Everything around me was foreign, but this — the smell, the feeling, the color — I knew.
In the end, you have a valuable treasure to take home. Hand-dyed, with a story of craftsmanship in its threads. The best kind of souvenir.
Stay Recommendation: Zhuo Ye Cottage
Chiayi: The City With The Good (Fish Head) Soup
I had a few locals genuinely ask me why so many foreigners flock to Chiayi. I mentioned the Netflix episode about the fish head soup, but I don’t think they quite understood. Regardless, Chiayi is a must-see.
The streets buzz with motorbikes, cars, and pedestrians weaving through the mayhem. It’s an easily walkable city, and I spent an afternoon wandering and cafe hopping. Just be prepared to brave the occasional lack of sidewalks and stride carefully along the edge of the road.
And try the soup. It’s worth the journey.
Cafe Recommendation: island coffee
Stay Recommendation: Komorebi Homestay
Turkey Rice: Simple, Delicious, Iconic
Chiayi is famous for its turkey rice, and rightfully so. It’s simple, delicious, and comforting. When the young man delivering my bowl handed me a soup spoon instead of chopsticks to eat my rice with, I loved him for it. A real one.
Art & Heritage Worth Your Time
Chiayi has a thriving art scene that I only got to take a peek at. The Chiayi Art Museum is worth a stop if you have time. But there’s a real hidden gem nearby: The Tile Museum.
This place is niche, impressive, small, and visually stunning. The intricate tiles on display once adorned the roofs of the wealthy in days past. Now the museum collects these discarded treasures and uses them to tell the story of Taiwan’s architectural heritage. Picture floor-to-ceiling walls covered in unique, handmade Japanese tiles, each one a story and a small work of art. There’s even a collection of antique furniture that incorporates tiles as design features, some pieces dating back 200 years.
I chatted with the attendant here, and she gave me a great recommendation for my next stop.
Fenqihu: Donuts, Kindness & Old Street Charm
I followed the attendant’s advice and, on my way to my next destination, stopped at Fenqihu for some famous donuts. They were everything you’d hope for: warm, crispy, delicious, and comforting in that homemade kind of way. The stall looks a bit ramshackle and sits slightly out of the way, but in my opinion, the best things are like that. There was a line when I got there, but it moved fast. The three ladies working at Fenqihu Donuts are absolute queens. 10/10. If you’re in the area, this place has to go at the top of your list.
Fenqihu Old Street is a lot like other old streets around Taiwan: winding, partially covered, and lined with shops selling tea, dried fruit, and snacks. What sets it apart is the warmth. I received more genuine smiles here than anywhere else on my trip. More hello’s. More people wanting to chit-chat. Blooming flower pots decorated every corner, the streets were spotless, and the vibes? Immaculate. Laid back. I wish I’d scheduled more time here. But alas.
Alishan: Sunsets, Cedars & the Heart of Taiwan
I reached my next destination just in time to witness the most brilliant sunset I’d ever seen. The blazing sun dipping behind mountains and fog, like a painting. It made me feel like I was in a storybook. I spent my short stay hiking the trails around the area, photographing the never-ending tea fields and towering, protective Japanese cedar trees.
I left Alishan feeling like I had just encountered the heart of Taiwan. The forest and the people took care of me while I was there. If anything could bring me back to Taiwan, it would be to explore more of this area and soak up the replenishing energy of Alishan.
Stay Recommendation: Long Yun Leisure Farm
Hiking Recommendations: Eryanping, The Cloud Trail
Kaohsiung: Kindness, Temples & Lotus Pond Magic
Kaohsiung had more of that replenishing energy I’d been craving. The first person I interacted with was my taxi driver, and she welcomed me to her city and wished me a pleasant stay. I’ve thought about that moment a lot — how quiet, simple, and easy that kindness was. It served its purpose perfectly, making me feel welcomed for the rest of my time in the city.
The Big Bummer (and a Silver Lining)
There was one disappointment: the Fo Guang Shan Buddha Museum was closed the day I could visit. Sad. But I guess I’ll just have to go back.
I visited the monastery next door instead, and it was as beautiful and pristine as you’d expect of a Buddhist monastery. The grounds are expansive, so wear comfortable shoes. There’s a calligraphy museum tucked behind the main shrine; make sure to seek it out.
A woman at the shrine offered to teach me how to light incense and greet the Buddha. Feeling like a clumsy, unsure child, I took her up on it, lit the incense under her guidance, bowed, and made my offering. He says hi.
The Lotus Pond: Touristy for All the Right Reasons
I spent my last evening in Kaohsiung meandering around the famous Lotus Pond, home to the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas. It’s touristy, but for good reason. It’s fun and cool, trust me. I was surprised to see more locals than foreigners here. The promenade around the pond is well-kept, and the views are stunning — it makes sense that it would be a community space.
As the sun set, it cast a pink and purple glow over everything. People were singing karaoke, and I stopped to watch. It wasn’t until after I noticed my cheeks were aching; I had been smiling the whole time.
Later, I watched a few men fish from the shore. One guy caught something, and it was very exciting for all his friends. Go him!
A Perfect Ending
After dark, I took a taxi to Sunfong Temple. Its lanterns glowed, enchanting and otherworldly. I lit incense, soaked it all in, took the Instagram picture, and headed back to my hotel.
Wrapping up a perfect evening in Kaohsiung.
Stay Rec: Inns Hotel
Coming Home (But Leaving a Piece of My Heart Behind)
After a few uneventful days back in Taipei, I boarded my flight home, wishing Taiwan well and hoping to see her again someday soon. I’m sure I will. But if not, I’ll stay forever in awe of her beauty, her people, her culture, and the way of life here.
For most people in the world, Taiwan will only ever be a headline. They’ll never get a chance to see it with their own eyes or experience the very real people who live here, their kindness and hospitality.
I’m so grateful I don’t fall into that category, and that I’m privileged enough to have my travels lead me here, to Taiwan.
0 Comments